The Art of Offwidth Climbing Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack

The Art of Offwidth Climbing Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack 2019-11-22T13:26:05+00:00

We are so pleased to announce that we will be offering “The Art of Offwidth Climbing” clinic with professional climber           Pamela Shanti-Pack! 

Come join one of the best off-width climbers in the world for an amazing weekend of offwidth climbing mastery and hone your skills for the art of offwidth war!  

 

Spring 2020 Dates: 

3 Day Co-ed Clinic: April 10th – 12th

Book Now!

2 Day Women’s Only Clinic: April 18th & 19th

Book Now!

 

Photo by Chase Krumholz

Location: Indian Creek and Moab, UT

3 Day Clinic Cost: $1200 + Taxes and Fees

2 Day Clinic Cost: $900 + Taxes and Fees

Overview

The Indian Creek Art of Offwidth climbing clinic, developed by offwidth legend Pamela Shanti Pack, is a great way to get into offwidth climbing and/or improve your offwidth skills. Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body into and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. In this intensive three-day clinic, you will be introduced to basic and advanced offwidth climbing skills that will have you crushing wide cracks in style.

This clinic will give you the chance to learn techniques and tricks from world renowned offwidth masters who have been in the sport for decades and who have established hundreds of first ascents and worldwide test-pieces with over 50 years combined experience climbing in the desert. Devin Fin, who will be co-instructing, has climbed in Indian Creek for 25 years and established over 200 first ascents the Creek. Pamela and Devin have both learned from the desert pioneers and have endless stories and knowledge to share about the history of the Creek and desert climbing, and are known for their charismatic and passionate teaching style. We maintain a 3:1 ratio so you will receive plenty of individual attention. 

Pamela and Devin will be accompanied by Heidi Stanke or Joe Stern from Cliffs and Canyons, AMGA certified Rock Guides with years of desert and guiding experience.  The AMGA is the premier U.S. organization and the only internationally-recognized certifying body for Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering guides.

 

Prerequisites

You must be proficient with basic knots, climbing commands and have experience belaying. The climbs in the Indian Creek clinic start at 5.10 and may seem strenuous to the uninitiated. The Art of Offwidth clinic is intended for climbers who at a minimum can follow 5.9 traditional climbs or 5.10 sport. Although only a basic fitness level is required the more prepared you are the more pitches you will be able to climb. We are happy to provide you with training guidelines and suggestions developed by Pamela Shanti Pack and her trainers.

 

What To Expect

The Clinic officially starts the morning of April 10th at 9am at a location TBD. However, you are welcome to join us at our group site and settle in anytime on April 9th. We camp together as a group, make campfires in the evening and will provide you unlimited coffee in the mornings. We will climb from 9am until as late as you would like to stay out for three FULL days. 

Please note that we will NOT be providing food. Moab Cliffs and Canyons will, however, be providing a full kitchen for the group to use. We will be bringing plenty of water for the group for each clinic. 

Moab Cliffs and Canyons has tents, sleeping pads and sleeping bags available for those that would prefer not to travel with these items. We will provide a personal list of items and equipment that you should bring for your course.

We will have a professional photographer shooting photos on ropes from above throughout the weekend. After the clinic, all photos will be uploaded and everyone will be sent a link so you can download high-resolution versions to keep and/or share with friends and family. 

 

 Topics Covered

  • Learning to tape your hands for offwidth
  • Beginning to advanced offwidth techniques: Various types of hand-stacks (butterfly stacks, hand-fist stacks, fist-fist stacks)
  • Leavittation history and techniques
  • Armbars
  • Chicken wings
  • Leg-jams and heel-toes
  • Calf-locks
  • Knee locks
  • Chimney techniques
  • “Sidewinding”
  • Introduction to Inverts
  • Tips and techniques for leading offwidths such as reading the route, gear placement and removal, safely bumping cams, getting around your big pro, managing a big rack, strategic placement of Big Bros and gear tagging techniques and communicating with your belayer.
  • We will have DMM Dragon cams, Trango Big Bros, 9” and 12” Valley Giants and 9” Merlin cams for you to practice placing.
  • Rope management techniques for offwidth.
  • Learning how to pace yourself, rest and move efficiently.
  • Managing fear and improving your mental game.
  • How to manage pain on offwidths and protect your body.
  • Fitness and training for offwidths. We will provide a recommended training program pre-Clinic upon request.
  • Miscellaneous offwidth trickery.
  • One of our goals is to prepare you to start leading offwidth safely and/or improve your lead level. We want you to be the person who happily volunteers to lead the dreaded offwidth pitch no one else wants to lead. 

 

Pamela Shanti Pack’s Sponsors 

Clinic Ropes are provided by Maxim Ropes. There will be lots of free products provided for guests to keep from La SportivaTrangoDMMSublime ClimbingFriction Labs, Maxim Ropes and Joshua Tree Skincare with more to come in Spring 2020.

 

Weather

The ethic in the desert is not to climb on wet sandstone because it can damage the rock, and the accepted practice is to wait a full day to climb once the rock becomes saturated. We can and will work around non-saturating rain. If you can arrange to stay for two days beyond the length of the Clinic we will climb those two days. 

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