The Art of Offwidth Climbing Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack

The Art of Offwidth Climbing Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack 2020-02-21T08:49:11+00:00

We are so pleased to announce that we will be offering “The Art of Offwidth Climbing” clinic with professional climber Pamela Shanti-Pack! 

Come join one of the best off-width climbers in the world for an amazing weekend of offwidth climbing mastery and hone your skills for the art of offwidth war!  

Spring 2020 Dates: 

3 Day Co-ed Clinic: April 10th – 12th

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2 Day Women’s Only Clinic: April 18th & 19th

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Location: Indian Creek and Moab, UT

3 Day Clinic Cost: $1200 + Taxes and Fees

2 Day Clinic Cost: $900 + Taxes and Fees

3-Day Art of Offwidth™ Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack

  • Moab Cliffs and Canyons
  • Dates: April 10th – 12th 2020
  • Location: Indian Creek, UT
  • Clinic Cost $1200
  • Guides: Pamela Shanti Pack, Marcus Garcia, Devin Fin 

OVERVIEW

The Indian Creek Art of Offwidth climbing clinic, developed by offwidth expert Pamela Shanti Pack, is a great way to get into offwidth climbing and/or improve your offwidth skills. Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body into and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. In this intensive three-day clinic we will provide you with the necessary skill set to climb challenging offwidths from Indian Creek to Yosemite.  

This clinic will give you the chance to learn techniques and tricks from world renowned offwidth masters who have been in the sport for decades and who have established hundreds of first ascents and worldwide test-pieces with over 75 years combined experience climbing. Pamela has been seeking out North America’s most challenging inverted and vertical style offwidth climbs since 2008. She was not only the first woman to climb a 5.13 offwidth, but also received the prestigious Golden Piton Award in 2009 for establishing Gabriel in Zion National Park, the first 5.13+ offwidth in the world and it remains a global test-piece. Subsequently, Pamela has spent the last decade establishing demanding routes, most with crux vertical and invert style offwidth pitches, throughout the American West. Pamela will be co-instructing with Marcus Garcia and Devin Fin. Marcus has spent nearly two decades guiding, coaching and establishing some of the most committing and beautiful routes in North America, from cutting edge single-pitch climbs to daring 14-pitch adventures, on rock, ice and mixed terrain. Devin Fin has been climbing in Indian Creek for 25 years and established over 200 first ascents in Indian Creek. Pamela, Marcus and Devin have all been mentored by desert pioneers and have endless stories and knowledge to share. All three are known for their charismatic and passionate teaching styles. We maintain a 3:1 ratio so you will receive plenty of individual attention. 

Pamela, Marcus and Devin will be accompanied by Heidi Stanke or Joe Stern both AMGA certified Rock Guides with significant desert and guiding experience. The AMGA is the premier U.S. organization and the only internationally-recognized certifying body for Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering guides.

Prerequisites

You must be proficient with basic knots, climbing commands and have experience belaying. The Art of Offwidth clinic is intended for climbers who at a minimum can follow 5.9 traditional climbs or 5.10 sport. Although only a basic fitness level is required, the more prepared you are, the more pitches you will be able to climb. We will provide you with training guidelines and suggestions before your course.

What to Expect

The Clinic officially starts the morning of April 10th at 8:30am. However, you are welcome to join us at our group site and settle in anytime on April 9th.  We camp together as a group, make campfires in the evening and will provide you unlimited coffee in the mornings before we head out for three full days of climbing.

Please note that we will NOT be providing food. Moab Cliffs and Canyons will, however, be providing an equipped camping kitchen for the group to use. We will be bringing plenty of water. Moab Cliffs & Canyons has tents, sleeping pads and sleeping bags available for those who would prefer not to travel with these items. We will provide a personal list of items and equipment that you should bring for your course. 

We will have a professional photographer shooting photos on ropes from above throughout the weekend. After the clinic, all photos will be uploaded, and everyone will be sent a link to download high-resolution versions to keep and/or share with friends and family. We will have DMM Dragon cams, Trango Big Bros, 9” and 12” Valley Giants and 9” Merlin cams for you to practice using and for mock leading throughout the Clinic.

Topics Covered

KEY CONCEPTS

  • Making tape gloves 
  • Managing pain and protecting your body on offwidths
  • Pacing yourself, resting stances and moving efficiently
  • Managing fear and improving your mental game
  • Training for offwidths (Note: We will provide a recommended training program pre-Clinic upon request)
  • Reading routes and evaluating hazards

OFFWIDTH TECHNIQUES

  • Beginning to advanced offwidth techniques
  • Hand Stacks: Butterfly stacks, hand-fist stacks, fist-fist stacks
  • Upper body offwidth techniques: Armbars, chicken wings, elbow locks
  • Lower body offwidth techniques: Heel-toes, leg locks, calf-locks, knee locks
  • Chimneying and sidewinding
  • Introduction to Inverts

GEAR PLACEMENT AND LEADING 

  • Tips and techniques for leading and following offwidths
  • Gear placement and removal
  • Bumping cams 
  • Navigating around big pro
  • Gear tagging techniques 
  • Communication between the leader and belayer
  • Rope and gear management techniques 
  • Miscellaneous offwidth trickery

Weather

The ethic in the desert is not to climb on wet sandstone because it can damage the rock, and the accepted practice is to wait a full day to climb once the rock becomes saturated. We can and will work around non-saturating rain. If you can arrange to stay for two days beyond the length of the Clinic, we will climb those two days in the event of rain. 

Pamela Shanti Pack’s Sponsors

There will be lots of products provided from Pamela’s sponsors for guests to keep from La SportivaTrangoDMMSublime ClimbingFriction Labs, Maxim Ropes, PhysiVantage, First Ascent Coffee and Joshua Tree Skincare with more to come in Spring 2020.

2-Day Womens Art of Offwidth™ Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack

  • Moab Cliffs and Canyons
  • Dates: April 18th – 19th  
  • Location: Indian Creek, UT
  • Clinic Cost $900
  • Guides: Pamela Shanti Pack, Kat Whipple and Heidi Stanke

Overview

The Women’s Indian Creek Art of Offwidth climbing clinic, developed by offwidth master Pamela Shanti Pack, is a great way to get into offwidth climbing and/or improve your offwidth skills. Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body into and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. In this intensive 2 day clinic you will be introduced to basic and advanced offwidth climbing skills and have the opportunity to climb with a crew of like-minded women and female guides. We will maintain a 3:1 ratio so you will receive plenty of individual attention. Our goal is to prepare you to feel comfortable and safe on all varieties of offwidths.  You will not be leading on this course, but we will prepare you to start leading offwidths safely and/or push your lead level. 

Pamela has been seeking out North America’s most challenging inverted and vertical style offwidth climbs since 2008. She was not only the first woman to climb a 5.13 offwidth, but also received the prestigious Golden Piton Award in 2009 for establishing Gabriel in Zion National Park, the first 5.13+ offwidth in the world and it remains a global test-piece. Subsequently, Pamela has spent the last decade establishing committing routes (most with crux vertical and invert style offwidth pitches) throughout the American West. Pamela will be co-teaching with Kat Whipple and Heidi Stenke. Kat Whipple has been climbing for 20 years all over the US: bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing and developing first ascents.  Over ten years ago, Kat fell in love with sandstone crack climbing in Indian Creek, especially wide cracks. Since then, she has put up 45 first ascents in Indian Creek ranging from 5.10 to 5.12+. Heidi is an AMGA certified Rock Guide with significant desert and guiding experience. The AMGA is the premier U.S. organization and the only internationally-recognized certifying body for Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering guides.

PREREQUISITES

You must be proficient with basic knots, climbing commands and have experience belaying. The Art of Offwidth clinic is intended for climbers who at a minimum can follow 5.9 traditional climbs or 5.10 sport. Although only a basic fitness level is required, the more prepared you are, the more pitches you will be able to climb. We will provide you with training guidelines and suggestions before your course.

WHAT TO EXPECT

The Clinic officially starts the morning of April 18th at 8:30am. However, you are welcome to join us at our group site and settle in anytime on April 17th. We will camp together as a group, make campfires in the evening and will provide you unlimited coffee in the mornings before we head out for two full days of climbing.

Please note that we will NOT be providing food. Moab Cliffs and Canyons will, however, be providing an equipped camping kitchen for the group to use. We will be bringing plenty of water. Moab Cliffs and Canyons has tents, sleeping pads and sleeping bags available for those that would prefer not to travel with these items. We will provide a personal list of items and equipment that you should bring for your course.

We will have a professional photographer shooting photos on ropes from above throughout the weekend. After the clinic, all photos will be uploaded, and everyone will be sent a link so you can download high-resolution versions to keep and/or share with friends and family. We will have DMM Dragon cams, Trango Big Bros, 9” and 12” Valley Giants and 9” Merlin cams for you to practice using and for mock leading throughout the Clinic

TOPICS COVERED

KEY CONCEPTS

  • Making tape gloves 
  • Managing pain and protecting your body on offwidths
  • Pacing yourself, resting stances and moving efficiently
  • Managing fear and improving your mental game
  • Training for offwidths (Note: We will provide a recommended training program pre-Clinic upon request)
  • Reading routes and evaluating hazards

OFFWIDTH TECHNIQUES

  • Beginning to advanced offwidth techniques
  • Hand Stacks: Butterfly stacks, hand-fist stacks, fist-fist stacks
  • Upper body offwidth techniques: Armbars, chicken wings, elbow locks
  • Lower body offwidth techniques: Heel-toes, leg locks, calf-locks, knee locks
  • Chimneying and sidewinding
  • Introduction to Inverts

GEAR PLACEMENT AND LEADING 

  • Tips and techniques for leading and following offwidths
  • Gear placement and removal
  • Bumping cams 
  • Navigating around big pro
  • Gear tagging techniques 
  • Communication between the leader and belayer
  • Rope and gear management techniques 
  • Miscellaneous offwidth tricks

WEATHER

The ethic in the desert is not to climb on wet sandstone because it can damage the rock, and the accepted practice is to wait a full day to climb once the rock becomes saturated. We can and will work around non-saturating rain. If you can arrange to stay for two days beyond the length of the Clinic we will climb those two days in the event of rain.

PAMELA SHANTI PACK’S SPONSORS

There will be lots of products provided from Pamela’s sponsors for guests to keep from La SportivaTrangoDMMSublime ClimbingFriction Labs, Maxim Ropes, PhysiVantage, First Ascent Coffee and Joshua Tree Skincare with more to come in Spring 2020.

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Photo by Chase Krumholz